Discussion:
Mutron Phasor II schematic needed,.. (musitronics)
(too old to reply)
spud
2006-03-17 07:40:56 UTC
Permalink
I have a blurry, useless, inaccurate paper copy from something called
analogman. If someone has a real copy with component values I'd really
appreciate it if you could contact me at the below address. I think
it's pretty similar to the Electro Harmonics PS-1. Thank you, s.
mrmasondjp
at
yahoo.com
Jack
2006-03-19 21:40:58 UTC
Permalink
Post by spud
I have a blurry, useless, inaccurate paper copy from something called
analogman. If someone has a real copy with component values I'd really
appreciate it if you could contact me at the below address. I think
it's pretty similar to the Electro Harmonics PS-1. Thank you, s.
mrmasondjp
at
yahoo.com
Most schematics available on the web for this or the Mutron III envelope
filter are NOT going to be as easily readable as from something built in
the last couple of years. Got to remember these units were done before
CAD systems were generally available and were hand drawn. Analog Mike is
doing the best he can with what he's got. He's not a 'thing' but a real
person.
What kind of parts are you looking to replace? The op amps are/were
standard Motorola old ones, circa mid 1970's. If you can read the color
codes on the resistors (they were standard carbon resistors), that will
help. I never kept the schematic in my head, but could probably trace it
out if I had the unit in my hands. Oh yeah - don't try and put in a new,
super-duper spec'd op amp - the extended frequency response won't help
any, and may well cause more problems than it'll help.
Spray some contact cleaner into thew pots and controls - that will help
take care of intermittents that way.
How do I know such - used to work for the company when they were in
Rosemont, NJ doing final test and checkout along with repair of customer
returned units. My test equipment (besides DVM and scope)? A Strat and
Twin Reverb.
--
de Jack N2MPU FN20
Modeling the NYC/NYNH&H in HO and CP Rail/D&H in N
Proud NRA Life Member
spud
2006-03-20 10:19:19 UTC
Permalink
Post by Jack
Post by spud
I have a blurry, useless, inaccurate paper copy from something called
analogman. If someone has a real copy with component values I'd really
appreciate it if you could contact me at the below address. I think
it's pretty similar to the Electro Harmonics PS-1. Thank you, s.
mrmasondjp
at
yahoo.com
Most schematics available on the web for this or the Mutron III envelope
filter are NOT going to be as easily readable as from something built in
the last couple of years. Got to remember these units were done before
CAD systems were generally available and were hand drawn. Analog Mike is
doing the best he can with what he's got. He's not a 'thing' but a real
person.
Well, a real person might have said, "sorry, the drawing I have is
shit, I can't sell this to anyone in clear conscience". It's a 12th
generation factory copy with no values on any part. It seems to show
the input and amp sections, power supply sec, then the control
sections but they are like three separate drawings. There's no way to
tell how it all goes together and no test voltages but who cares at
this point, let's forge ahead,..
Post by Jack
What kind of parts are you looking to replace?
dono, I just thought if I had the complete drawing I could figure that
out given enough time.
Post by Jack
The op amps are/were
standard Motorola old ones, circa mid 1970's. If you can read the color
codes on the resistors (they were standard carbon resistors), that will
help. I never kept the schematic in my head, but could probably trace it
out if I had the unit in my hands. Oh yeah - don't try and put in a new,
super-duper spec'd op amp - the extended frequency response won't help
any, and may well cause more problems than it'll help.
Thanks, I sprayed the pots and fixed both rails which had 2 xistors
failed and the zeners and the led were gone too even thought the fuse
was intact. It powers and works now but the feedback control doesn't
seem to do much of anything. Also, there is a time delay before the
phase effect comes in. You plink the string on yer pawnshop guitar and
there's a dry signal for the first third of a sec then the swoosh
sound mixes in. It's the same approx 300ms whatever you set the rate
or depth to be. Is this correct? I've never heard a good unit so I
don't know exactly what it's supposed to sound like, it's pretty cool
though.
Thanks for the advice about the op amps. I have some JC5884 (?)
whatever the originals were, I have 6 here from a cheapo ratshack eq
unit.
Post by Jack
Spray some contact cleaner into thew pots and controls - that will help
take care of intermittents that way.
How do I know such - used to work for the company when they were in
Rosemont, NJ doing final test and checkout along with repair of customer
returned units. My test equipment (besides DVM and scope)? A Strat and
Twin Reverb.
Excellent choice of weapons, Jack.
Can you remember anything about the calibration procedure? I see there
are two pots in the control section, TP1 and 2 but no voltages.
Also, a separate question on the Mutron III unit. Is the opto unit
Hamamatsu P873-13? A 6pin roach with 4 legs on one end and two on the
other? The part I have has no dot, which is designated in the
schematics I've seen so I don't know which way that would go. Thank
you for your response, s.
** Shelby prepared VibroChamp - UniVox Badazz 6 string electric.**
Jack
2006-03-27 02:32:54 UTC
Permalink
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner but I've been sick. Funny that
you mention Hamamatsu as the maker for the opto - I work for the company
here in the US. Have looked around, and they don't make that part anymore.

As I said in a previous post, don't knock Analog Mike. He's doing the
best with what he's got. He's as good as can be found on the net for
supplying effects. Schematics are NOT his primary business. No One, save
for maybe Aaron Newman or Mike Beigel would have a first generation copy
of the schematic, and even then they might not share it with the general
public.

The oscillator is free-running, so you shouldn't have ANY delay in the
effect sounding. Do you keep the unit engaged, or are you constantly
switching the unit in and out of the circuit via the foot switch? If
that's what you're doing then what you're doing is wrong.

Don't even bother taking out the op amps from the Radio Shack piece, or
any other piece of electronics. More likely than not you'll ruin the op
amp with excess heat or static discharge. Most parts can be harmed with
10 volts of ESD, and the average person without a ground strap carried a
charge in the 4 to 5 figure voltage range.

Instead of taking up bandwidth on the group, email me from a legitimate
email address (due to viruses I don't deal with Yahoo email addresses)
and we'll go from there. If you can't or won't do that, than I see no
point in helping you, especially seeing as this would have been better
brought up in alt.guitar.effects and not rec.audio.pro
--
de Jack N2MPU FN20
Modeling the NYC/NYNH&H in HO and CP Rail/D&H in N
Proud NRA Life Member
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